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crimson spider lily type soul

crimson spider lily type soul Red Spider Lily, Lycoris radiata, heirloom bulbs – The Southern Bulb Co

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crimson spider lily type soul Red Spider Lily, Lycoris radiata, heirloom bulbs – The Southern Bulb CoRed Spider Lily (Lycoris radiata): A Gardener's Guide to the Enchanting Resurrection Flower Red spider lilies are beloved perennials that thrive in zones 7 10, bringing a burst of vibrant beauty to gardens when fall rains arrive. A Lily of Many Names: The Red Spider Lily's Regional Nickname: One of our favorite things about the red spider is its many names as you travel across the country. This also makes for interesting conversations with our

Red Spider Lily (Lycoris radiata): A Gardener's Guide to the Enchanting Resurrection Flower

Red spider lilies are beloved perennials that thrive in zones 7-10, bringing a burst of vibrant beauty to gardens when fall rains arrive.

A Lily of Many Names: The Red Spider Lily's Regional Nickname:

One of our favorite things about the red spider is its many names as you travel across the country. This also makes for interesting conversations with our customers to make sure that we are talking about the same flowering bulb. The names don't change the striking beauty of this fall-blooming flower. Here in East Texas, we call it the "red spider lily". It is red, and the stamens look like spider legs. Along the coast, it is often referred to as a "hurricane lily" because it often blooms after the first fall hurricane. Many people call this a "naked lady" because it blooms on a naked stalk. Others simply call it a "surprise" lily because it shows up out of nowhere and surprises you one day with a flower. No matter what it is called, its beauty will make you glad that you have it in your garden.

The Red Spider Lily's Unique Bloom Cycle: A Timeline

Understanding the Red Spider Lily's bloom cycle is key to successful cultivation. Most people still expect to see something growing during the summer months. You won't see anything. These lilies are dormant in the summer. The flowers suddenly appear with the first later summer or early fall rains. One day there is nothing growing and then suddenly you have a surprise, a fully blooming flower! That is why they are called "Surprise lilies". Yellow spider lilies act very similarly to yellow spider lilies, schoolhouse lilies, and naked ladies. Simply put, they bloom in the fall and then have foliage for the winter. I have spider lilies planted almost 2 years ago that have not yet produced blooms but have produced increasing foliage each year.

1. Planting (Anytime): Avoid hard freezes, but otherwise you can plant the bulbs anytime that you are thinking about them.
2. Dormancy (Summer): Bulbs rest underground, conserving energy.
3. Surprise Blooms (Late Summer/Early Fall): Flowers emerge seemingly overnight.
4. Foliage Growth (Fall/Winter): Leaves appear, gathering nutrients for the following year.

Nurturing the Foliage: The Key to Red Spider Lily Success

The foliage is vital for the bulb's health and reproduction. Don't be discouraged if you don't see blooms the first year – healthy foliage is a positive sign of bulb establishment. The foliage tells you the bulb is growing and multiplying. We know that we all want to see the beautiful unusual blooms in the fall, but the foliage is very important. The foliage is what allows the bulb to grow and multiply. Many people get very concerned if they don't see the spider lily bloom the first year that they plant it and believe that maybe the bulb isn't any good. The foliage is what you watch for if you don't see your spider lily bloom, or even if you do.

Below you will see a picture of the foliage of the red spider lily - it looks like grass. We took the picture on November 1st. The foliage has been popping out of the ground a little over the previous couple of weeks, but now you can really see the stand. All of those different tufts of foliage are bulbs, and someday you will see a beautiful stand of red spider lilies here. In this area because of the super dry summer, not one red spider lily bloomed. However, you can see that the bulbs are growing. The foliage is up and ready to take in nutrients over the next several months while helping the bulbs grow, mature, and multiply. I know you will have to take our word for it, but there wasn't even 1/2 that much foliage there last year which shows you how quickly the bulbs multiply. The foliage will continue to grow. Even if it gets hit by a winter cold snap, it will have taken in nutrients for months! Always allow the foliage to die down naturally and don't cut it off. If you cut it, you are killing the bulb. Once the foliage is completely dead which is usually around the beginning of May, this area can be mowed. Remember, it takes a lot of energy for the bulb to push that bloom up out of the ground and open wide. The more time the bulbs can take in nutrients, the more energy they will have for that fall bloom.

Sunlight Requirements: Ensuring a Spectacular Bloom

The single most important thing about landscaping with spider lilies is the sun. They need at least 6+ hours a day of WINTER sun. That means about 6-8 hours of sunlight during the winter months. If you look at the photo above, you will see that they are in the shade of the trees. You can be sure that most, if not all, of those trees, will lose their leaves in the winter when the greenery needs sunlight. The spider lily puts on its foliage during the winter (November - May) and that is when it takes in the nutrients it needs to produce those golden flowers the following September. The winter foliage soaks up sun energy during winter as it prepares for summer dormancy. The foliage normally completely dies down by around May.

Planting and Care Tips for Red Spider Lilies

Don't plant the bulb too deep. You will plant the bulbs 2-3 times deep the height of the bulb (so if your bulb is 2" tall, then you will plant it 4-5 inches deep). You can plant 2-3 per hole to make the blooms look more natural. Spider lilies really do well in any type of soil. They thrive in soil that has plenty of organic material mixed in, but they do not require fertilizer. Newly planted bulbs would actually be harmed by exposure to fertilizer, so if you are going to apply nutrients, limit the application to established plants when the plants are producing their green leafy foliage during the winter. After planting the bulbs, water the soil thoroughly. Damp soil is ok, as long as the bulbs are in a spot where they will receive plenty of winter sun and the foliage is allowed to die down naturally in the spring. Standing water is not good. Once the summer season starts the spider lily will do best in soil that dries out a bit, as this facilitates its entry into the dormant stage when its leaves die back. This period is followed by its blooming season when it will reward daily watering with long-lasting blooms. Too much moisture in the soil will lead to the bulbs rotting.

Planting Depth: Plant bulbs 2-3 times their height deep.

Soil Type: While adaptable, they thrive in soil rich in organic matter.

Watering: Water thoroughly after planting and during dry periods. The bulbs are dormant during the summer so you don't need to water them.

Fertilizer: Avoid fertilizing newly planted bulbs; established plants benefit from fertilizer during active foliage growth.

The performance of red spider lilies primarily hinges on two factors:

1. Winter Sunlight: To produce lush blooms, the bulbs need to absorb sufficient nutrients from the winter sun. Energy stored over months is used to create these breathtaking blossoms. For this, they require at least six hours of winter sun for several months to ensure they have the energy needed.

2. Fall Rains: The magic trigger for these blooms is the arrival of fall rains. Without adequate rainfall in September, the bulbs won't bloom, as the rains are the signal they've been waiting for.

Dividing and Multiplying Your Red Spider Lily Garden

Early spring is ideal for dividing, but it can be done whenever convenient. Remember, transplanting might cause the lilies to skip a blooming cycle.

Companion Plants for Red Spider Lilies: A Symphony of Color

Enhance your garden's beauty by pairing Red Spider Lilies with other perennials, annuals, or bulbs for continuous blooms:

Perennials: Salvias, Lantanas, Plumbago, Phlox
Annuals: Alyssum, Snapdragons, Pansies, Cyclamen
Bulbs: Narcissus, Iris, Snowflakes, Rain Lilies, Crinums, Hymenocallis

FAQ's

Do animals bother the red spider lilies?

Pollinators adore yellow spider lilies...hummingbirds, bees, and butterfilies.

While deer will eat anything (including plastic flowers if hungry enough), spider lilies are more resistant to their urges than many other ornamental garden products. They definitely leave the foliage alone during the winter, but can be attracted to the bright flowers. So the answer to this question, is that they are mostly resistant, depending on how hungry the deer are. Remember, humans ate tulips during times of hunger/famine, yet tulips definitely aren’t on our menu either.

We understand that online sources sometimes raise concerns about toxicity, so we want to offer some clarification. Much of the alarm you may see online stems from generalized or exaggerated toxicity listings. In reality, cases of actual poisoning are extremely rare, and the plants are not considered a serious risk. While red spider lily bulbs, like many ornamental bulbs, do contain alkaloids that could cause mild irritation if ingested in large quantities, they are not considered dangerous to humans or animals under normal garden conditions. The key is that even for mild irritation they would need to be fully consumed in large quantities. Even if animals chew on the bulbs a little bit, they aren't interested in them (even deer who have been known to eat plastic flowers leave them alone). In fact, they’ve been grown safely in Southern gardens for generations—including in areas with pets and children. You can feel confident they won’t pose a hazard just by being in your garden.

When should I plant red spider lilies? How far in advance should lily bulbs be planted before the first frost in the fall?

For fall planting, aim to have fall lily bulbs in the ground at least four weeks before the first frost. This gives them time to get settled and adjusted before the freeze. You can plant red spider lilies anytime, but avoid a hard freeze.

How do you ship red spider lilies?


During the spring, we ship these vibrant bulbs "in the green," which means they are plump, healthy, and eager to be planted. Expect the foliage to yellow and die back naturally—this is a normal process where the leaves nourish the bulbs for future blooms. Once the foliage is dead, you can cut it off. The rest of the year we ship dormant bulbs. Plant them, water them, and then just wait. Remember - you won't see anything during the summer as the bulbs are dormant. You may not see blooms the first fall depending on when you planted the bulbs. Many perennial bulbs need 6-12 months in the ground before they bloom.

Your Red Spider Lily Journey Starts Today!

Order your Red Spider Lily bulbs now and witness the magic of these captivating flowers in your own garden. With their unique charm and resilience, they are guaranteed to become a treasured part of your landscape.

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Janeee
Charlottesville, US
★★★★★ 5
Fantastic speaker plug at a great price!
Size: 5 Pack, Pattern Name: Banana Plugs
This is a product that gets the job done effectively, and at a good price. Banana plugs are used to clean up speaker wire - you can generally screw in speaker wire, but banana plugs provide a nice interface that allows you to plug in and remove speaker wire as needed. These closed plugs do a good job terminating / hiding the wire. They fit very well into various components and amps that I own. INSTRUCTIONS to install / use them: * Remove around 1" - 2" of the white casing to expose the red and white individual speaker wires * Strip each wire so ~1/2" metal is showing * Make sure the plug end is screwed in tightly (this does not need to come out) * Unscrew the base of the plug from the other end * WithOUT twisting the metal wiring, insert the wire (match wire color with plug color; start with either one) from the bottom of the plug until the metal sticks out the top * Have ~1/4" metal hanging past the plug * take the wiring and drape it down the sides of the plug (just the smooth side, do NOT cover any of the screw threading or it will be very hard to close it) * Spread the draped wiring around the plug as evenly as possible (makes it easier to screw in later) * Screw the two ends of the plug back together (the side with the draped wiring will go inside the plug) * If you get stuck while screwing it back in, unscrew and adjust the wiring * Repeat for the other side, and you're done!
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Reviewed in the United States on January 10, 2019
L
Verified Purchase
L. Yu
Whiting, US
★★★★★ 4
pretty good banana plugs
Size: 5 Pack, Pattern Name: Banana Plugs
i bought these over 6 months ago and i just installed them to the front left and right floor standing speakers - sony ssf-7000 i have them for over 10 years hooked up to a yamaha 7.1 AVR. alot of people have had trouble installing this - one single banana plug comes in 3 parts - the bottom and top (the banana plug tip) can be unscrewed. what i did was tightened the top first (top being the tip of the banana plug) then unscrew the bottom off completely - make sure you have like 3/4" - 1" (depending on your gauge of wire) of exposed speaker wire that is straight - then thread it through the hole at the bottom up - i then rolled the exposed 3/4 - 1" exposed copper wiring into a ball that is bigger than the hole of the banana plug bottom piece so the wire doesn't fall back through where it came from. then i screwed on the top and middle piece back with the bottom piece - tightening it a bit so i know there's good contact. also make sure the tip is screwed in all the way as well as a double check. what you don't want to do is have the copper wire touch the threaded part of the bottom piece - the wire will cut off from the screwing action. i plugged it into my sony speakers and it wasn't a real snug fit - a bit too loose to feel secure - it didn't seem to go all the way in - but it fit fairly well in my receiver. my intention was to use these banana plugs with my 2 channel set up but i decided to go pre-constructed mediabridge 12 AWG speaker cable instead - those fit my 2 channel set up on my receiver and elacs really snug and secure. i tested it and it works fine. i didn't hear any loss of signal or any extraneous noise. none of my (14 awg?) wiring fell through the bottom and it sounds good. so no complaints there. i bought 5 pairs - but i find that it is an odd number to include a package - even numbered pairs would be better. anyway they seem constructed well - easy enough to install and they do work. thanks for reading
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Reviewed in the United States on September 12, 2019
A
Verified Purchase
AB
Carnegie, US
★★★★★ 5
High quality and robust
Size: 12 Pairs, Pattern Name: Banana Plugs
Easily the best plugs I've found at a reasonable price. Solid feeling with good quality and they look good with easy to see red/black labeling. The tips tend to unscrew too easily, but this is a non-issue when they are in use, just something you have to be careful not to lose when assembling. It's a bit tricky to spread the wire out evenly at the exact right length. If screwing the plug together is hard at all, go back and shorten how much wire you bend over the lip.
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Reviewed in the United States on June 16, 2025
W
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William
Pawtucket, US
★★★★★ 5
Solid banana clips
Size: 5 Pack, Pattern Name: Banana Plugs
Ah yes, I used these solid banana plugs to convert my wires. It’s pretty easy to set up once the wire housing has been stripped and really cleans things up nicely. I haven’t had any discernable hissing, noise problems, or connection issues.
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Reviewed in the United States on May 25, 2026
L
Verified Purchase
Leyland Cypress
Alexandria, US
★★★★★ 3
Get the right wire guage
Size: 1 Count (Pack of 1), Pattern Name: Banana Plugs
I rate the banana plugs themselves 4 stars. They are everything I expected and work as advertised. It's the experience of assembly that I rate three stars. The way these work is -- you strip off the outer insullation of your wire and separate the two leads (positive and negative). Then you strip some length of insulation off the end of one of your leads, you unscrew the banana plug so that it separates into its respective base (lower) and contact (upper) halves, you slip the wire up through the base, you flare the copper strands of the wire and fold the individual strands over the very top of the base (about 1/16 of an inch) (taking care not to extend the strands over the threaded barrel of the base), then you screw the upper contact onto the lower base and voila, banana plug / wire assembly. It's not as complicated as it sounds. Go to the Monoprice website and watch their excellent instructional video. Here's the thing though. While the assembly is not complicated, it is tricky, and if you don't get your proportions right the first or second or third time, you'll have to do it over. Fist of all, if your wire guage is relatively thin, like my 16-guage speaker wire, you'll find that the entire wire, insullation and all, will slip right through the base of the plug without butting up against the bottom of the base. If this is the case, then the wire is left to sort of flop around inside the plug and that has a kind of unfinished, amateur look and feel to it, whereas if the wire butts up against the bottom of the base, it has a solid, one-piece professional look. So, to my mind, there's a sweet-spot for wire guage that works best with this plug -- not too thin and not too thick. And since Monoprice has debunked the thicker-is-better myth (the quality of the copper is the real determinant), then you should feel free to get the wire guage that fits the plug. Next -- and here's where it gets tricky -- once your copper extends beyond the top of the base, you'll need to limit this extension to about a sixteenth (no greatrer than a fourth) of an inch. Then you very delicately flare out the individual strands, in a 360- degree arc, and fold the strands over the top of the base. This takes a fair degree of manual dexterity, especially if the wire is "floating" inside the base and its travel is not stopped where the insullation meets the base. You'll have to hold the wire and base steady in the fingers of one hand, then flare out the wire strands with either your fingers or a suitable object (the working end of a ball-point pen worked for me) with the other hand. This one-sixteenth measure is important. If you extend wire strands beyond the top and over the threads of the base, you'll find that screwing the contact end onto the base is impossible and you'll need to start over. One or two strands is OK and almost unavoidable. In that case the screwing will catch but if you take a pair of pliers to it you can muscle through. By the way, you can avoid the whole mess by getting the open-screw type, which I'm sure will work just as well without any of the hassle of assembly. Like anything else, if you do it a few times to make the mistakes and learn the tricks, then it will become second nature, and if you've already done that, then my review might seem overly fussy. In that case feel free to leave comments to help other readers.
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Reviewed in the United States on October 15, 2012

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